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How Do Alpha Hydroxy Acids Work?

Posted by on September 5, 2012 · 3 Comments 

Despite what many cosmetic marketers claim, there aren’t a lot of anti-aging actives that work when delivered from topical applications. Retinol, maybe Niacinamide but not much else. However, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are one such active that works. But the exact mechanism by which they work has been unknown. At least until now.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

First, an AHA is a class of compounds that contains both a carboxylic acid and a hydroxyl group on an adjacent carbon. Common ingredients include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid. They have been proven to treat conditions like acne, UV damage, and wrinkling. In high concentrations, they work as skin peels which can lead to temporary skin smoothing. They aren’t the most effective anti-aging ingredients but they do work.

AHA mechanism

Now, researchers think they have figured out how these thing work. Candidly, I never thought there was much mystery to how they work. I just figured an acid broke down the “glue” that held skin cells in the out mantel together and that led to exfoliation. But if it were that simple, any acid should work and they don’t. AHAs are special.

According to research published in the Journal of Biological Chemistry, AHAs work by interacting with a membrane protein in the skin cells. They tested glycolic acid and found that it enters into keratinocytes and generates free protons. The acidic conditions activates an ion channel in the cells membrane protein which leads to a flow of calcium ions into the cell which ultimately leads to cell death due to it becoming overloaded.

Fascinating.

I wonder if these things could be made more effective if the skin lotion included some additional Calcium. Hmmm. Something for an enterprising young cosmetic chemist to try out.

Formulate on!

 

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More about the author:  Perry received his B.S. in Chemistry from DePaul University. He has written and edited numerous articles and books, teaches SCC continuing education classes in cosmetic science, and is the primary author at ChemistsCorner.com a website dedicated to training current and future cosmetic scientists. Read more from this author

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  • http://twitter.com/beautyscientist beautyscientist

    Yes that is interesting. Like Perry I had never given the mechanism of action much thought, but I suppose I imagined that AHAs were working on the desmosomes rather than the cells themselves. I am going to have to think this one over.

  • http://twitter.com/RealizeBeautyEd AmandaFoxon-Hill

    Interesting bit of research, still learning something new every day so thanks Perry :)

  • Rodolfo_Baraldini

    Interesting research, which, like all the new research, requires a validation.

    Personally, with my limited knowledge on this subject, I am not very optimistic and I have many doubts about the mechanism of action described.

    1-The theory of the role of epidermal calcium circulated 15 years ago, assuming a chelating action of the AHA. Many other chelating calcium showed no effect in terms of scaling similar to the AHA. Neither reducing nor increasing the epidermal calcium(for years cosmetic masks with alginate and/or calcium salts are applied without any exfoliation effect)

    2 – The Trpv3 receptor and the calcium channels that have been identified in this new research have for years been extensively studied for the response to capsaicin …. and neither capsaicin nor nicotinic salts exfoliate.

    3 – The short explanation: “calcium kills the cells and these go away “does not explain anything nor the loss of adhesion of desmosomes nor on the production of new lamellar granules and thight junctions that make cohesive the stratum corneum.

    Waiting curiously for the validation of this research by those who know and understand much more than me about this matter.