Do Your Own Research. . . . . Really?

I have lost count of the number of times, on cosmetics blogs and various internet discussions, that the commentator has urged the consumer to “do your own research”. They are often kind enough to provide some information themselves as a contribution towards this “research”. However, there are two fundamental flaws here:

1)    The blogger/commentator is frequently providing inaccurate/totally wrong information

2)    The consumer has insufficient scientific background to realise this.

The total absence of “truth filters” on the internet means that anyone can post anything without censorship or, more pertinently, review and correction. Many beauty bloggers have little or no scientific background, yet they pose as “experts”, and the average consumer is often uncritical in their acceptance of the statements and claims made, especially if they fit in with their belief system (e.g. that “chemicals” are dangerous).

“Do your own research” is a pointless, throwaway line because, if the consumer doesn’t understand the science, on what basis is the decision taken as to what to believe is true? It is a sad fact that the vast majority of the books “exposing” the cosmetics industry are written by non-scientists and, unsurprisingly, are full of misinformation, pseudo-scientific nonsense and pure garbage (with a little bit of truth thrown in occasionally, to be fair!). It only takes one mistake in one statement, subsequently repeated elsewhere, for a complete myth to take root. A very simple and basic example is that of formaldehyde. At some point in the past, someone decided to warn others of the dangers of formaldehyde and, to pad out the information, chose to make it look as though they were highly knowledgeable by including some synonyms for the substance. Done correctly, there is no doubt that this can be useful information (assuming that the rest of the content is accurate, of course). The problem here is that, on one occasion, the author misspelled methanal (the correct systematic name for formaldehyde), and wrote methanol, which is a totally different substance, with different properties. In fairness, my spellcheck just corrected “methanal” to “methanol” as I typed here, and this may be the reason for the error (damn you, spellcheck!!!), but such information should be properly checked prior to posting/publishing – in chemistry, a single letter can make a huge difference, as in this instance! This is a relatively minor example in terms of the impact on accuracy, but it serves to demonstrate my point – a single error gets replicated when people who don’t have the correct knowledge, start to dabble in the area.

There was an article on cosmetic ingredients posted on the Care2 website some time ago that contained a large number of errors. The article generated a huge number of comments, mostly from people who were saying that it was a great article, and very useful – it wasn’t – it was borderline nonsense, but the commentators were not sufficiently scientifically aware to realise this. You can see how my own frustration with this shines through if you have the patience to trawl through the many hundreds of comments.

One of the commentators, in particular, took issue with my accusation that most of those responding were not scientifically aware, and accused me of arrogance. He failed to respond sensibly to my point about non-chemists not being aware that triethanolamine is not a nitrosamine (as claimed in the article), and I feel that I got my point across, but I fail to understand how so many people feel they fully understand so much, when they have no training or robust background in science, and feel able to encourage others, similarly ill-equipped, to “do their own research”. This type of phenomenon has been studied by psychologists, who came to the conclusion that “people who are incompetent suffer a dual burden: not only are they incompetent, but they may also be too incompetent to assay their own incompetence, because the skills which underlie an ability to make a correct judgement are the same as the skills required to recognise a correct judgement”. (Kruger, J. Dunning, D., J. Pers. Soc. Psych. (1999); 77; 6: 121 – 34). This is a general observation that would appear to apply perfectly to the situation I have described.

The sad thing about this situation is that these commentators tend to only believe what they want to believe, in a highly selective manner. They pretend to understand the science, yet they totally ignore the findings of the independent panel of scientific experts that comprise the EU’s Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) on matters such as the safety of parabens, for example. Amazingly, these lay commentators know far better than established experts!

Rarely is the phrase “the blind leading the blind” more appropriate than in these cases. I could write a book on the psychology of this – I’m not trained in psychology, but that shouldn’t really matter . . . should it?

 

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More about the author:  Dene Godfrey has been involved with preservatives for cosmetics since 1981, from both technical and commercial angles and has a degree in chemistry. Read more from this author


  • Lise M Andersen

    Ah, but then there are those researchers that really do pay attention to the scientists that are taking the time and bother to explain things in ‘lay terms’, and for that, Dene, I thank you. Thank you for educating, informing, and even reprimanding. I’ll take everything you’ve got! :)

    • Dene Godfrey

      Thanks, Lise :-)

    • Sânziene şi Mătrăgună

       Indeed, Lise, I also say thank you to all the science-wise women and men who take their time and explain things for us, newbies. There’s a lot to learn and one should not take pride in her/his ignorance!

  • http://twitter.com/RealizeBeautyEd AmandaFoxon-Hill

    Comedy GOLD and sadly too true.  As someone who studies and works in the chemical industry I am constantly finding out (embarrassingly) that I am wrong.  I actually like that because it leads to me learning quite a lot which eventually leads to something that ends up being right – until proved otherwise.  I hardly ever (can’t remember ever but I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt) see the scare mongers and nay sayers printing a retraction or explaining how they are building on their knowledge and understanding.  They just move with stealth, like a drama looking for a cause, to the next hyped up scare story and hope that we move too. The problem here is arrogance and not always by those with a science degree (which surprisingly don’t come with an arrogance bypass) but by anyone who thinks they know it all.  There just aren’t enough hours in the day…….  Anyway, good one Dene, you made my day :)

    • Dene Godfrey

      Thanks Amanada :-)

  • http://profiles.google.com/nancyaliedel Nancy Liedel

    It’s simple, we, as small formulators, are not allowed to make medical claims. I cannot say, although it’s true, that Tea Tree oil has been proven to help with acne. The problem comes in when someone is making a rather well stretched claim and leading people to places that do poor research in the first place. Everyone’s favorite, TEWG.

    The truth is, you either trust the information you’ve been given by the formulator, the formulator makes NO medical claims and a preservative is not an antioxidant. 

    My biggest beef? People that use bad studies to, “show,” you how harmful incis are and then will not look into further studies, because a scientist is not to be trusted. However, they used a scientific study, usually flawed, to prove their point in the first place.

    I do not want my customers to die. I don’t want them poisoned to save myself a buck. I want them to live to 100 and be purchasing customers the entire time. How do you prove that? You can’t, but people making wild claims and selling snake oil get a lot of attention from the buying public. 

    This is my absolute favorite rant. Can you tell? 

    I can’t get rid of the darn extra pic. Just ignore it. I am not always certain my Google pic will pop, and I’m a real person. :)

    • Dene Godfrey

      That’s an excellent point about trust, Nancy, and you are totally right – they HAVE to have trusted a scientist at some point – they just chose to believe those who publish results that “fit in” with their belief system. I also agree with your point about not poisoning your customers – this also applies to the big corporations (I hope you will enjoy my forthcoming article on THAT particular subject! – I’ve never posted a trailer before! lol), but many people won’t accept that!

  • Diycosmetics

    Good article, Someone needed to say this:) 

    It’s always amazed me how people will believe or pass on a whole article of “untruths” with not a single reference attached.Thanks. Rebecca

  • Heather Walls

    I think the problem is that people refuse to believe scientists or anyone else that disagrees with what they are just 100% certain is correct because they feel that someone invested in something would lie to them. I listened to someone explain why they would never give their child vaccines because Jenny McCarthy explained it all in her book and they can’t trust the FDA because they are controlled by the drug companies. However, as Nancy said, we want our customers to live long and be life long customers. 

  • Ilikeballet

    Thank you! I can’t even read a beauty website/blog, with the exception of the Cosmetics Cop, without getting all up in arms over the misinformation that’s floating around. Mainly, “natural” is better than chemical/synthetic, parabens cause cancer, sunscreen causes cancer, etc… I feel, as Nancy mentions below, TEWG is a huge source of all this misinformation about cosmetics and personal care products.

  • http://twitter.com/mykitchenandI Renee

    The one that bugs me a lot is when the beauty “expert” will try to sell you on a product because it’s “natural.” I have a lot of allergies so can’t use a lot of things and told a hairdresser this. She insisted that I would be able to use her products because they are “natural.” Usually those products are the very worst bc of all the extra unnecessary plant botanicals. I used the product a week and sure enough it caused a reaction. When I hear the it’s all natural line my standard response these days is yeah, so is arsenic, but that doesn’t mean it will be good for me!

  • Coriforia

    This is a very interesting article. As a beauty blogger, I tried very hard not to take anything personally ;o) I do think perhaps instead of “do your own research”, it may be more appropriate to say “become aware.” The truth is, there ARE some products that contain harmful ingredients (either for humans or the environment), or irritating ingredients – even when labeled for “sensitive” skin. I think it’s important for consumers to realize that just because they can buy it, doesn’t mean it’s good for their skin. Consumers need to be proactive in learning more about what they put on their bodies.

    • Dene Godfrey

      Sorry, but “become aware” is exactly the same as “do your own research” in my opinion. You still need to have an understanding of the scientific concepts involved. Yes, there are many ingredients that are “harmful” that are used in cosmetics, but they are NOT used at harmful concentrations. Relatively few ingredients cause skin irritation, and those to relatively few individuals. As long as the risk remains low, there is no reason to remove those ingredients. That is the entire point (originally) of ingredient labelling – to enable those with irritant/allergic reactions to avoid the “rogue” ingredient(s). Please check out my post on here on MSDS – because I think you will find it interesting! :-) (I am NOT saying that ALL beauty bloggers are guilty, btw!)

    • Perry Romanowski

      I think it is mostly a waste of time for people who don’t have a background in science to “do their own research.”  It is very complicated, pretty boring, and easy to get fooled.  If you really enjoy chemistry and toxicology then by all means do some research.  But learn & understand the subject before developing conclusions that are in contrast with what the majority of scientific experts are saying about the subject.  It is not easy to learn this stuff!

      This notion that anyone could learn what is “good” or “bad” for their skin is misguided too.  Everyone’s skin is different.  Even a dermatologist isn’t going to know what is ‘good’ or ‘bad’ for any specific person’s skin.  There is not some magic bullet ingredient that will be all good or all bad for someone’s skin.  Life is just much more complicated than that.  In clinical studies of drug active ingredients, a large % of people will not have a positive response.  Retinol will not work for everyone.  So you cannot read your way to knowledge about what is good or bad for your skin.  You have to just test things out yourself.    And even then, you could easily fool yourself into thinking something works when it was just a coincidence that your skin got better.

      Real life is complicated and we only know a tiny amount of everything there is to know.  Doing your own research can either make you realize how much you don’t know, or it can trick you into developing false beliefs that will be hard to shake.  And it might sound odd coming from a scientist but it is better to be ignorant than to believe things that are not true.

      • Sânziene şi Mătrăgună

         take my case: I work in IT, I loved to learn about biology and anatomy back in school, but nothing too serious. And yet I was fooled by EWG, as I thought that they were reliable. And while google-ing, I could only find the information that supported EWG. So, I thought that was the truth.

        It is only last year that I manage to find other blogs and forums and more reliable scientific sources. And I have put my mind at work. I have found web sites such as this one , where people like you put all your efforts in educating us. And I do feel that consumers need to be educated.

        I know that I will never match any of you guys, but at least I am nore informed now and less easy to be fooled. I have learned how to separate the scare mongers from people having a real sound point. And I kinda take pride on that. Thanks to you guys (and ladies :P ) I know now what should I NOT buy. I have started to formulate for myself and friends, as safe as possible given my knowledge level. I am a better person and I thank you all for helping me staying informed.

        and yes, it is a huge blow to the ego, to admit that you are wrong . to believe in conspiracy theories just because they sound like something that is doable in this crazy world, and then to realize how foolish you have been :)

        • Sânziene şi Mătrăgună

           edit: I know what I should NOT buy . sorry for the spelling :-)

      • http://www.donnamaria.com/ Donna Maria Coles Johnson

        Very good points here. The last sentence especially. If you don’t know, and you say you don’t know, then you really can’t do any damage.

      • obviously not a scientist

        Wonderful article from Dene and great points made by Perry. Thanks guys.

    • http://www.reconnective-health.com/ Sima

      I agree consumers need to be proactive, but they need to know whom to ask and whom to listen. The people here are great and there’s an FB page where I’m sure if you asked a question someone with way more science and cosmetic formulation experience than me would be happy to answer your question with probably with proper citation too lol. Once you find out the proper information let your readers know you took the extra steps to write your articles. I encourage you to help the cause by being different and actually providing good quality information that scientists would happily contribute. Everyone benefits at that point.

      We are so scared of everything all the time, that we find it impossible to believe that cosmetics could be perfectly safe to use. Seriously, if you have skin irritation stop using the product. It’s not rocket science and what my sister finds irritating, I guarantee I’ll be perfectly fine. 

  • Chromel9

    Bravo, Bravo, Bravo!

  • http://www.facebook.com/joseph.colas Joseph Colas

    i always love a “dene” article!  they’re not only informative but that sense of humor of his shines through a la:  I’m not trained in psychology, but that shouldn’t really matter . . . should it?   thank you dene for both enlightening and giving me a good chuckle!!!

  • Raylene

    Yes I learnt about “doing my own research” from googling sympoms and self diagnosing. However doing my own research now means reading articles written by Scientists like the ones on this site!