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Honeysuckle Plant Extract

Posted by on July 7, 2010 · 7 Comments 

Since the late 70’s, the Holy Grail of the marketers who play in the “natural” cosmetic market, has been the search for a “natural” preservative. Although one does exist, it is always rejected by these hypocrites for other reasons. This one chemical is so natural, it is found in every cell in our bodies. It is Methylene Glycol.

Since this doesn’t sound “natural” enough for these folks, they go off on their crusade to fine the Holy Grail. Since these people really believe that something found in nature is safer than something made by chemists, it is easy to fool these people. As P.T. Barnum once said “There’s a sucker born every minute”.

The first one to find the market was Grapefruit Seed Extract. This has been re-invented several times. In the late 70’s it was found to be Methyparaben dissolved in Propylene Glycol. Then came Triclosan in Propylene Glycol and the latest has analyzed to be Benzethonium Chloride. For more details.

Recently there has been interest shown in Japanese honeysuckle extract. This is offered as Lonicera Caprifolium Extract  under the trade name of Plantservative WSr by Campo. The specifications says it is 30-37% water with the balance being “Lonicera (lonicerin)water soluble esterified actives”. There is no description of these % “actives” but they are the described as the Metyl, Ethyl, Propyl and Butyl esters. The simple statement that the extract is esterified begs the question of “natural?” Further the pH of the product is 9-12 which is usually cidal to most bacteria, yeast and mold.

People who have tried this product at levels up to 1% have found that they passed typical efficacy challenge tests. However on aging, the products turn yellow and then failed the same tests. This raise serious questions of it stability. Currently the FDA shows 34 formulations registered with them using this chemical.

Caveat Emptor


This post was provided by David Steinberg, president of Steinberg & Associates, a cosmetic consulting firm. Mr. Steinberg founded the Masters program in cosmetic chemistry at Farleigh Dickinson University, an instructor for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and a past president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

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  • http://www.wingsets.com Annrn @ Wingsets

    Grrrrrr – this just drives me crazy. I've had this discussion on Facebook with others who have repeated these same facts – and I'm sure they are true. But, why is it people can't or don't understand that some formulators, myself included, like to use certified organic dried botanicals, honeysuckle flower being one of my favorites, in a tea infusion as the water phase of an emulsion? Simple, basic, effective, no added preservatives to the honeysuckle. Purchased food grade, certified organic honeysuckle flower, dried and then added to heated water – period, end of discussion. My research showed that this botanical has beneficial properties – something we're always looking for. We include dried botanicals in infused oils and in our tea infusions. Now because of all the hype about this ingredient, when someone sees I have honeysuckle flower in my list of ingredients, they automatically assume that it has some hidden preservative. We were testing and researching honeysuckle flower long before it came out as a commercial ingredient for cosmetics. And this begs the question as how to declare it on my label – if I call it an “extract”, which basically it is now that I've used it in an infusion, then that certainly raises questions. Just saying.

  • David Steinberg

    Where is your safety data on the products you are making? Food grade? I love to eat mustard but try and put this on your skin and see the burn. I once asked a major sellor of “certified organic oils” if they where different than regular oils. After 15 minutes of sales pitch, I said they are different. He said YES! So I asked to see his safety data and saw him turn pale as a ghost. He than said they had none, they are the same. You can believe what you choose.

    I chosse products that are tested and shown to be safe, not hope in a jar.

  • http://twitter.com/essentialU Kayla Fioravanti

    Thanks for this great information. David Steinberg is one of my favorite go to experts on preservatives. He confirmed what I was thinking about the Plantservation version of Japanese Honeysuckle Extracts which was just what I needed to hear to go ahead with my blog on the topic.

  • http://www.wingsets.com Annrn @ Wingsets

    Seriously, Mr. (is it Mr. or Dr.?) Steinberg? I just purchased, not cheaply, your latest book on Cosmetic Preservatives. I recognized you as a long-time expert in the area of cosmetic preservatives. I would have thought you would have responded with a more thought-out response than your knee-jerk, not particularly helpful comment. Are you actually saying that a tea infusion using honeysuckle flowers is potentially not safe – since a lot of us drink this as well? And exactly how does that relate to the topic? Having the opportunity to discuss this with an “expert” should be and I had hoped would be helpful and educational.

  • http://www.wingsets.com Annrn @ Wingsets

    Kayla – I just read your blog that you mentioned above. I agree with your statements about honeysuckle extract or even the natural honeysuckle infusion that we use – which is NOT the cosmetic ingredient you are discussing. Neither of which are capable of being a complete preservative system. The botanicals that we use in our tea infusions are used as a synergy, not as a complete stand-alone ingredient, and frankly our reasons for using honeysuckle are for more than just it's antimicrobial properties. I've used you as a mentor and have followed your formulation knowledge by using successfully some of the extracts that I see you (and others) use to create a synergistic preservative system. By doing this, we are able to use a much smaller percentage of a synthetic preservative – that being my point.

    Secondly, your comment about honeysuckle not being “green” is interesting to me and I need to research further the botanical varieties. When I lived in the south and even here in Nebraska, honeysuckle grows quickly and easily – it is considered a weed in the south and finding a use for it would be of benefit. Perhaps the varieties are totally different and something I will pursue.

    Thirdly – let me just say again to Mr. Steinberg in his inference that our products are not safe. We not only follow standard GMP requiring that each batch be tested for microbial growth, but we also keep additional jars and have them tested out as far as 2 years. In the 8 years we have been in business we have not had one adverse event reported to us and we do keep a recording system in place for this. I personally believe that a safe preservative is more important than an “all natural” preservative and I think if you look at our ingredients which are transparent on our website, you will see this is true.

    My only point in all of the discussion from the beginning is asking that we not vilify natural botanical ingredients by confusing the public with general statements about “Honeysuckle Extract” – not all honeysuckle extracts are the one mentioned by Kayla, and I don't remember at this moment the name she gave it – we don't buy it or use it. Kayla, you use blackwillow bark extract – and I believe this to be a very good ingredient and we use it too. Now lets assume that one of the large cosmetic ingredient companies decided to commercialize it and come out with a fancy name for it that included a hidden preservative – but the INCI would still be “Blackwillow Bark Extract.”? How would that affect your ability to continue using it in most of your formulations? Especially, if websites such as this brought on “experts” who tell the public that it is not only NOT natural, but it might be harmful?

  • Me

    I am sorry….this is just too funny.
    Your understanding of GMPs is that you test the products for micro contamination??
    Good one.
    Anyhow – do yourself a favor and do analytical breakdown of your Honeysuckle and don’t be surprised if you get positive for formaldehyde….what do you think makes it work???